Matthew McKean is a nomadic American transplant who has “cheffed” his way through Costa Rica “serving seared tuna and mahi mahi to surfers,” been through California cooking at “some yoga retreats and doing raw vegan food”, and further honed his craft during a year long stay in Thailand – before settling in Montreal in 2009.

Now McKean is on a mission to educate and promote mezcal. As in, this stuff is civilized…it’s not the same as the tequila you down with some lemon and salt at 2:45 in the morning. Mezcal has carried spiritual and religious significance for people in Mexico throughout the country’s history. It is the Americas’ oldest distilled spirit and tequila’s more nuanced and refined cousin. In other words, if tequila is the one-night stand you kick out of your bed the morning after, mezcal is the respectable “friend” you bring home to meet mom.

... Which brings us back to McKean, whose mezcal mission involves spreading the agave nectar gospel to restaurants across Montreal. Not only is he the chef and co-owner of Joverse and Rosewood, he’s also a co-owner of the spirit import company Xintury, which focuses exclusively on mezcal.

It’s always a shitty mezcal that has the worm

-Matthew McKean

Mezcal has long been plagued by the myth that bottles of of the spirit containing a worm (con gusano) had hallucinogenic effects. This was actually just a marketing ploy that helped merchants sell lesser quality product to tourists. “It’s actually given mezcal a pretty bad name,” McKean laments, “It’s always a shitty mezcal that has the worm […] and it changes the pH of the alcohol and has a bad effect on the flavor – it makes it more bitter.” Myth debunked: stay away from the worm.

While tequila is an industrialized product that is made only from the Blue Weber agave plant, mezcal can be distilled from almost sixty different varieties of agave. And, like wine, flavor profiles are always changing. To be labeled a true artisanal mezcal by the Mexican government, the alcohol must meet a series of guidelines, which include being fully organic and made by hand in a traditional distillery.

You can use it for tons of preparations because it has an amazing flavor, it adds smoke to everything.

-Matthew McKean

A dominant characteristic of mezcal is its smoky flavor, which can jazz up a cocktail or even your dinner. As awareness of this complex spirit creeps up on restaurants across the city, will mezcal become the next big “secret ingredient?”

The potential is there, but for now mezcal is relegated to drinking. “Awareness in Montreal is low,” says McKean. “[…but] once people understood what it was, they found me, those who really want it and really like it. Other people think it’s just another spirit that’s expensive so they don’t purchase it. Those who do get it have been integrating mezcal into their cocktail menu for its unique flavor.”

While we’re getting a cultivated primer on mezcal, let’s take this spirit to the next level… how does one cook with this stuff? McKean clearly has a sweet tooth: “I was using it in desserts, [for] mezcal poached pears,” he explains. Sounds good, do go on. “You can use it to deglaze a pan. I use it in braising liquid for brisket.” McKean doesn’t limit himself there though, “You can use it for tons of preparations because it has an amazing flavor, it adds smoke to everything.”

OK, now I’m getting hungry. Matty, hit me up with a recipe!

Carnitas Taco

50 gr pork carnitas
2 gr white onion
2 gr micro cilantro
4 gr tomatillo salsa
4 gr pickled red onion
3 oz EL TINIEBLO MEZCAL JOVEN

Carnitas Fry Liquid

3 pasilla chilis
1 ancho chili
100 gr duck fat
1.5 liters pulled pork
2 oz EL TINIEBLO MEZCAL JOVEN

Tomatillo Salsa

400 gr tomatillo
130 gr onion
30 gr jalapeño
50 gr garlic
2 gr cumin
15 gr cilantro
470 gr water
10 gr chicken base

Pickled Red Onion

240 gr red onion
20 gr lime juice
20 gr sugar
50 gr beet
50 gr orange juice
1 gr vinegar
3 OZ EL TINIEBLO MEZCAL JOVEN

Preparation

In a sauce pot melt the duck fat with chilis. Set aside.

Combine all tomatillo salsa ingredients in a saucepan, reduce for 25 minutes. Mix until smooth with immersion blender. Cool.

In another saucepan blanch red onions and beets in boiling water. Remove after 30 seconds, and set in an ice bath. Combine with all other ingredients.

Heat corn tortilla on flattop, drain oil from pork and place on tortilla, add tomatillo salsa, white onion and pickled red onion. Garnish with micro cilantro and lime wedge.

Cube pork shoulder into 40 gram pieces. Sear in pan with duck fat then transfer after 2-3 minutes into the fry liquid with el Tinieblo Mezcal.

Assemble and eat. With your hands obviously.