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Food + Drinks / by Serena Trifiro
Photographer / Staff

Eat Meat

We go nose to tail with Toronto's Healthy Butcher

In recent years, the landscape of food culture has seen a shift towards vegetarian or vegan preferences. Celebrity chefs and food bloggers have focused intensely on the idea of a meat-free existence, often equating this to a healthy or holistically beneficial choice. With the rise of global supermarkets, it comes as no surprise that consumers associate meat with industrialization, capitalism, animal abuse and growth hormones.

While there are many reasons for ascribing to a vegan or vegetarian diet, some people have made this choice based on the slaughter of animals on an industrial scale and all the negative imagery it entails. People are no longer comfortable with the idea of not knowing where their meat comes from and how it was raised. William Orford, the store manager at The Healthy Butcher, became interested in the trade almost two years ago. Since that time, he has found a passion for food and its sources: “Understanding where your meat comes from, where the cuts are located on the animal, and how best to use them is an integral part of keeping yourself and your family healthy. Too many of us have stopped asking the essential questions in regards to the production of our food.”

Eat-Meat-03

An increasingly popular alternative to cutting out meat altogether has been the resurgence of the butcher shop, once a staple in every community. Many urban areas are on top of this increasingly popular trend, which offers an appealing alternative to large-scale grocery stores. The revival of the butcher shop is fast becoming a mainstream solution for those disenchanted carnivores. New age butchery is inspired by a “farm-to-table” philosophy, an ideology that many fine-dining restaurants live by. The premise is simple: knowing where food was grown, what animals were fed, how produce was cultivated and by whom. Essentially, it involves the choice of consuming locally and mindfully sourced ingredients. The “whole animal” movement, also called “nose-to-tail” cooking, follows a similar inspiration: knowing how the animal was raised, slaughtered and butchered, followed by the use of the entire animal—from the cheeks to the ribs to the feet and even organs—in the preparation of meals. To William, the concept is a logical one: “We, as a community, have to realize that animals are not just made up of one or two cuts. They are whole animals, and wasting 90% of that animal is just not an option.” It’s a way of connecting with food, and reminding oneself of its importance both nutritionally as well as culturally. In the future, William predicts that the trend will continue to grow with the support of dedicated consumers: “Whole animal butchery is making a comeback. Going forward, there will be less meat packers, and more skilled artisans.”

The Healthy Butcher is a prime example of a passionate, health-conscious and environmentally responsible meat provider that serves products free of antibiotics, steroids and chemicals. Most of their animals were raised locally and none are fed any animal by-products. The result is a superior quality, the meat tastes as it is supposed to: rich and complex flavours with preserved nutritional integrity. Just walking into their shop, you will immediately notice the size of their cuts and the pride they take in the displaying each product. Perhaps the most valuable service that local butchers offer is information and advice. From the other side of the counter, William sees it the same way: “I think the most important role for the butcher is a trustworthy source of knowledge. Find a butcher shop that answers your questions properly. Without a relationship built on trust, a butcher is nothing.” Educating customers on what they are purchasing and answering their questions is just as essential as preparing a beautiful pork loin. But some of the burden lies on the consumer, who needs to take on a proactive role: “If there is one bit of advice to give, it is always ask questions. The more you know about the cut, the animal, and the shop, the better off you’ll be.” For the average grocery shopper, the idea of frequenting a specialty shop may seem inconvenient, excessive or even intimidating but the benefits far outweigh the hassle. For one, you know exactly what you’re getting. There’s a guarantee as far as quality and sustainability. It’s also an opportunity to discover new varieties and unconventional cuts of meat that grocery stores seldom carry.

Whole animal butchery is making a comeback. Going forward, there will be less meat packers, and more skilled artisans.

-Orford

Most people have heard of “game meats” — traditionally wild, undomesticated animals hunted rather than farm-raised. Today, all game meats for commercial sale are farm-raised by law, but their benefits and taste remain intact. In addition to being lean, healthy proteins that are low in both fat and cholesterol, game meats are packed with flavour. A butcher can recommend interesting cuts of meat and simple ways of cooking them. William’s piece of advice: “Game meats, due to their leanness, have always been a popular alternative to other red meats. Pair them with some winter spices like clove, cinnamon, juniper, or cranberry for some deliciously hearty meals.” Once you start experimenting, you’ll realize that it isn’t particularly difficult or complex. “Your butcher is like the navigator of the meal,” says William. “They can guide you based on the type of dish you’re looking to create.” It’s these kind of recommendations that help build confidence and creativity in the kitchen. We’ve put together a short list of four delicious meats that you can find at your local butcher and we’ll be sharing simple recipes for each on our fan page all month long.

Eat-Meat-02

Venison:

Don’t be fooled by the fancy name, it’s really just deer meat. You will notice right away that the colour is a beautiful dark red. It’s healthier and more rich tasting than beef. There are many ways of cooking it, such as in stews, as burgers or even in meatballs. The golden rule with venison is not to overcook it because it will become very tough and dry. If it’s your first time using this meat, we suggest going back to basics and preparing grilled venison steaks.

Wild Boar:

As you might imagine, wild boar tastes like pork but porky-er. Its strong, bold flavour has undertones of a sweet nuttiness. It’s leaner than pork so health-conscious individuals like it as an alternative. Since a boar’s physical structure is the same as a pig, you can get the same beautiful cuts such as bone-in loin chops, rib chops, and top sirloin roasts. Our favourite simple and (very very) impressive way to enjoy wild boar is to prepare a whole leg roast. All you need is time, the rest kinda just happens.

Rabbit:

Wild rabbit has a very fine, delicate texture and a mild flavour. It is slightly more sweet and gamey tasting than chicken. It’s also 98% fat free. Rabbit works really well in a stew or a ragu, the sauce will keep the meat from drying out. For a nice hearty winter dinner, get out a dutch oven and give this rustic dish a try.

For the less adventurous home-chefs, you can still learn a thing or two about the meats you already know well and love. There are certain basic cooking techniques that everyone should have in their repertoire. Ladies will swoon if you present them with a perfectly cooked pot roast. You can’t go wrong with beef; it’s a staple in many households and a type of meat that most people are comfortable cooking. William helped us out by sharing his three favorite cuts of beef and his go-to ways of preparing each one.

Vacio/Bavette:

This may be one of the most under-appreciated cuts of beef. The vacio is harvested from the Flank area of the cow, and may be labelled “Thin Flank,” or “Bavette.” Vacio is a grilling steak at heart, with only salt and pepper needed to season. For best results, either BBQ it, or use a Cast Iron pan and finish in the oven.

Blade Roast/Steak:

Blade is a tough cut of beef from the shoulder of the cow. The blade is traditionally used in pot roasts, pulled beef, stew, and other braising dishes. The tough nature of this roast means that it needs to be cooked low and slow, but will deliver incomparable flavour.

Prime Rib Roast/Steak:

The king daddy of all roasts and steaks. Any good butcher shop should be dry-aging their Prime Rib. Dry-aging evaporates a lot of the water left in the cut, and concentrates the flavour of the meat while also tenderizing it. Look for a minimum of 21 days dry-aged for the best flavour and tenderness on a Prime Rib. This bad boy is, in its essence, a bone-in Rib Eye: one of the most beautifully marbled and treasured of beef cuts. If you want to impress, cook up a Prime.

Unlike most butcher shops, The Healthy Butcher offers courses on breaking down whole animals and we were fortunate enough to get a little preview of the process. Breaking down a chicken may seem simple enough but it’s important to practice and master basic techniques before taking on larger animals. The process will give you insight into which parts are best suited for different dishes — it will allow you to see the “bigger picture”, to understand why certain cuts are more tender and why certain cooking methods are ideal. Once you graduate to the big leagues, it will deepen your appreciation of how versatile each kind of meat or poultry is.

The craft of butchery is an art that William and the staff at The Healthy Butcher take very seriously. Beyond offering customers the best quality, it represents a shift in mentality and an awareness of the process, which, for thousands of years, was a sacred and central part of a community. Butcher shops offer a way of being accountable, respectful and appreciative of nature’s bountiful offerings. Whether you’re choosing a different cut of beef for the first time or trying your hand at cooking Elk, a butcher is the person to consult. So pay your neighbourhood butcher a visit and ask them questions, experiment! You’ll learn a thing or two — and your meals will definitely taste better.

In recent years, the landscape of food culture has seen a shift towards vegetarian or vegan preferences. Celebrity chefs and food bloggers have focused intensely on the idea of a meat-free existence, often equating this to a healthy or holistically beneficial choice. With the rise of global supermarkets, it comes as no surprise that consumers associate meat with industrialization, capitalism, animal abuse and growth hormones.

While there are many reasons for ascribing to a vegan or vegetarian diet, some people have made this choice based on the slaughter of animals on an industrial scale and all the negative imagery it entails. People are no longer comfortable with the idea of not knowing where their meat comes from and how it was raised. William Orford, the store manager at The Healthy Butcher, became interested in the trade almost two years ago. Since that time, he has found a passion for food and its sources: “Understanding where your meat comes from, where the cuts are located on the animal, and how best to use them is an integral part of keeping yourself and your family healthy. Too many of us have stopped asking the essential questions in regards to the production of our food.”

Eat-Meat-03

An increasingly popular alternative to cutting out meat altogether has been the resurgence of the butcher shop, once a staple in every community. Many urban areas are on top of this increasingly popular trend, which offers an appealing alternative to large-scale grocery stores. The revival of the butcher shop is fast becoming a mainstream solution for those disenchanted carnivores. New age butchery is inspired by a “farm-to-table” philosophy, an ideology that many fine-dining restaurants live by. The premise is simple: knowing where food was grown, what animals were fed, how produce was cultivated and by whom. Essentially, it involves the choice of consuming locally and mindfully sourced ingredients. The “whole animal” movement, also called “nose-to-tail” cooking, follows a similar inspiration: knowing how the animal was raised, slaughtered and butchered, followed by the use of the entire animal—from the cheeks to the ribs to the feet and even organs—in the preparation of meals. To William, the concept is a logical one: “We, as a community, have to realize that animals are not just made up of one or two cuts. They are whole animals, and wasting 90% of that animal is just not an option.” It’s a way of connecting with food, and reminding oneself of its importance both nutritionally as well as culturally. In the future, William predicts that the trend will continue to grow with the support of dedicated consumers: "Whole animal butchery is making a comeback. Going forward, there will be less meat packers, and more skilled artisans."

The Healthy Butcher is a prime example of a passionate, health-conscious and environmentally responsible meat provider that serves products free of antibiotics, steroids and chemicals. Most of their animals were raised locally and none are fed any animal by-products. The result is a superior quality, the meat tastes as it is supposed to: rich and complex flavours with preserved nutritional integrity. Just walking into their shop, you will immediately notice the size of their cuts and the pride they take in the displaying each product. Perhaps the most valuable service that local butchers offer is information and advice. From the other side of the counter, William sees it the same way: "I think the most important role for the butcher is a trustworthy source of knowledge. Find a butcher shop that answers your questions properly. Without a relationship built on trust, a butcher is nothing." Educating customers on what they are purchasing and answering their questions is just as essential as preparing a beautiful pork loin. But some of the burden lies on the consumer, who needs to take on a proactive role: “If there is one bit of advice to give, it is always ask questions. The more you know about the cut, the animal, and the shop, the better off you'll be.” For the average grocery shopper, the idea of frequenting a specialty shop may seem inconvenient, excessive or even intimidating but the benefits far outweigh the hassle. For one, you know exactly what you’re getting. There’s a guarantee as far as quality and sustainability. It’s also an opportunity to discover new varieties and unconventional cuts of meat that grocery stores seldom carry.

Whole animal butchery is making a comeback. Going forward, there will be less meat packers, and more skilled artisans.

-Orford

Most people have heard of “game meats” — traditionally wild, undomesticated animals hunted rather than farm-raised. Today, all game meats for commercial sale are farm-raised by law, but their benefits and taste remain intact. In addition to being lean, healthy proteins that are low in both fat and cholesterol, game meats are packed with flavour. A butcher can recommend interesting cuts of meat and simple ways of cooking them. William’s piece of advice: “Game meats, due to their leanness, have always been a popular alternative to other red meats. Pair them with some winter spices like clove, cinnamon, juniper, or cranberry for some deliciously hearty meals.” Once you start experimenting, you’ll realize that it isn’t particularly difficult or complex. “Your butcher is like the navigator of the meal,” says William. “They can guide you based on the type of dish you’re looking to create.” It’s these kind of recommendations that help build confidence and creativity in the kitchen. We’ve put together a short list of four delicious meats that you can find at your local butcher and we'll be sharing simple recipes for each on our fan page all month long.

Eat-Meat-02

Venison:

Don’t be fooled by the fancy name, it’s really just deer meat. You will notice right away that the colour is a beautiful dark red. It’s healthier and more rich tasting than beef. There are many ways of cooking it, such as in stews, as burgers or even in meatballs. The golden rule with venison is not to overcook it because it will become very tough and dry. If it’s your first time using this meat, we suggest going back to basics and preparing grilled venison steaks.

Wild Boar:

As you might imagine, wild boar tastes like pork but porky-er. Its strong, bold flavour has undertones of a sweet nuttiness. It’s leaner than pork so health-conscious individuals like it as an alternative. Since a boar’s physical structure is the same as a pig, you can get the same beautiful cuts such as bone-in loin chops, rib chops, and top sirloin roasts. Our favourite simple and (very very) impressive way to enjoy wild boar is to prepare a whole leg roast. All you need is time, the rest kinda just happens.

Rabbit:

Wild rabbit has a very fine, delicate texture and a mild flavour. It is slightly more sweet and gamey tasting than chicken. It’s also 98% fat free. Rabbit works really well in a stew or a ragu, the sauce will keep the meat from drying out. For a nice hearty winter dinner, get out a dutch oven and give this rustic dish a try.

For the less adventurous home-chefs, you can still learn a thing or two about the meats you already know well and love. There are certain basic cooking techniques that everyone should have in their repertoire. Ladies will swoon if you present them with a perfectly cooked pot roast. You can’t go wrong with beef; it’s a staple in many households and a type of meat that most people are comfortable cooking. William helped us out by sharing his three favorite cuts of beef and his go-to ways of preparing each one.

Vacio/Bavette:

This may be one of the most under-appreciated cuts of beef. The vacio is harvested from the Flank area of the cow, and may be labelled "Thin Flank," or "Bavette." Vacio is a grilling steak at heart, with only salt and pepper needed to season. For best results, either BBQ it, or use a Cast Iron pan and finish in the oven.

Blade Roast/Steak:

Blade is a tough cut of beef from the shoulder of the cow. The blade is traditionally used in pot roasts, pulled beef, stew, and other braising dishes. The tough nature of this roast means that it needs to be cooked low and slow, but will deliver incomparable flavour.

Prime Rib Roast/Steak:

The king daddy of all roasts and steaks. Any good butcher shop should be dry-aging their Prime Rib. Dry-aging evaporates a lot of the water left in the cut, and concentrates the flavour of the meat while also tenderizing it. Look for a minimum of 21 days dry-aged for the best flavour and tenderness on a Prime Rib. This bad boy is, in its essence, a bone-in Rib Eye: one of the most beautifully marbled and treasured of beef cuts. If you want to impress, cook up a Prime.

Unlike most butcher shops, The Healthy Butcher offers courses on breaking down whole animals and we were fortunate enough to get a little preview of the process. Breaking down a chicken may seem simple enough but it’s important to practice and master basic techniques before taking on larger animals. The process will give you insight into which parts are best suited for different dishes -- it will allow you to see the “bigger picture”, to understand why certain cuts are more tender and why certain cooking methods are ideal. Once you graduate to the big leagues, it will deepen your appreciation of how versatile each kind of meat or poultry is.

The craft of butchery is an art that William and the staff at The Healthy Butcher take very seriously. Beyond offering customers the best quality, it represents a shift in mentality and an awareness of the process, which, for thousands of years, was a sacred and central part of a community. Butcher shops offer a way of being accountable, respectful and appreciative of nature’s bountiful offerings. Whether you’re choosing a different cut of beef for the first time or trying your hand at cooking Elk, a butcher is the person to consult. So pay your neighbourhood butcher a visit and ask them questions, experiment! You’ll learn a thing or two -- and your meals will definitely taste better.

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