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Food + Drinks / by Serena Trifiro
Author / Zak Buis

White White Wine

It was serendipity, the way it worked out,” he said, recalling the last five years of his life. How a young Canadian guy, born and raised in a Vancouver suburb, a college football player and recent graduate of a notorious party school end up as an apprentice at Domaine Charles Joguet, one of the most storied Domaines in France’s Loire Valley? It’s a riddle that is not easily solved…Why is a raven like a writing desk?

In many ways, it felt as if the power of the universe swept things into place and made them as they should be. On the other hand, it may just be the result of natural selection- of fitness- in the wine world. This might have all started with a tasting and a knack for remembering the names of wines and what they taste like. But as the affinity grew stronger, so did the yearning for France. And so, this is how Zak Buis decided to move to French wine country to learn about the industry, fall in love with white wines and experience la joie de vivre.

After college, Zak was hired to play football in St-Étienne, a town southeast of Lyon. There, he met what he affectionately refers to as his “French family”. The couple occasionally invited him to their home for dinner; she would cook and he would open wine and say where it’s from and how it’s made. Their enjoyment of good food, good wine and the good life soon became his. It wasn’t until they brought him to La Maison Troisgros, a three Michelin starred restaurant in Roanne, that he truly started to see food and wine in a different, prominent and deliberate, light.

When he returned to Vancouver, uncertain about his future and his career, Zak took a job at a wine importing company. He enjoyed tasting and everyday his interest continued to grow. He displayed an aptitude for perceiving flavours and aromas and it soon became clear to him that this could be more than just a hobby or part-time job- it could be something “very unique.”

A year later, after having learned quite a bit about different wine regions, daily product tastings and taking courses, a longing to return to France began to set in. His french family helped connect him with a Domaine that he was familiar with and admired: Domaine des Baumard. The wines from this vineyard had a profound effect on him and it was a place he saw himself working and, most importantly, learning from a master winemaker.

While Zak helped with the making of the wine- handling everything from pumping, cleaning, preparing, harvesting, repairs, quality control, office work and communications- the most memorable lessons and memories came from sharing meals with Monsieur Baumard. It was then that he discovered that their palates were very much alike and they enjoyed a similar taste for wine. And then, his mentor introduced him to fine white wines, elegant and delicate gems, the key to finding pleasure.

In recent years, white wines are increasing in popularity especially seasonally as the stigmas or preconceptions attached to them are fewer. The New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc trend may have been responsible for reinvigorating its marketability. But liking well-aged white wines for many people is still quite unconventional. Zak’s fondness stems from something inherent in old white wines that can’t be found in any red wine: the flavour profile, the characteristics, the precision- “it’s just something that, when you find it, it can’t really be forgotten.”

3

Domaine des Baumard, Quarts de Chaume, Quarts de Chaume

The Place:

Crafted from 100% chenin blanc grapes, Quarts de Chaume is from the Anjou region in what is known as “le jardin de France” – the Loire Valley. Its name originates from a tradition in the village of ‘Chaume’, where, in the middle ages, the Lord of the region would allow his peasants to harvest and use the grapes from his vineyards, so long as the best quarter of the harvest- the grapes found on the southern facing slopes just outside the village- was reserved for him. The wine made with the grapes from that specific region, the “quarter of Chaume”, was of a superior quality because of its ideal location. The south facing slopes received sunshine throughout the entire day and their proximity to the Layon River allowed for a natural phenomenon called “pourriture noble” to take place.“Pourriture noble” or in english, Noble Rot, occurs when a fungus attacks the skin of ripe grapes. The perforated skin releases water from the grape, leaving intact their luscious sugars and acids and allowing these to concentrate.

The Wine:

This largely underappreciated and relatively unknown wine is one of the finest sweet wines in the world. Quarts de Chaume is unique amongst other wines of this nature; it contains an astonishing 250g of residual sugar per litre, yet remains refined and elegant. It dispels myths associated with sweet wines: cheap quality, headaches, over-priced, reserved for after meals or special occasions. It has made even the most skeptical wine drinkers reconsider sweet wines. Quarts de Chaume is at once opulent but not ostentatious, rich but refreshing, it coats the mouth but never overwhelms it. Its complexities must be experienced first hand; it must be tasted to be understood and both the seasoned veteran and wine novice alike will immediately understand its quality. It is a wine that is as regal and elegant as the lords of Chaume themselves.

The First Tasting:

The first time I tried Quarts de Chaume was a bottle of the 2004 vintage that I found in Vancouver. It was 2011 and I was working for a wine store, a company that imported Domaine Baumard. As I later learned, that year was what was known as “off-vintage”, a term used by critics to refer to a year with below-par conditions that sometimes influence the outcome and quality of the wine. However, the 2004 Quarts de Chaume was lighter, elegant and more refined than the “successful” vintages. The flavours were pronounced and concentrated, yet ethereal. It was so light and refreshing that the physical liquid quickly dissipated leaving behind only sophisticated remnants of tropical fruits, honey, quince and flowers.

2

Domaine de la Bongran, ‘CuvéeTradition’ by Jean Thévenet, Viré-Clessé

The Place:

The next wine brings us to the other side of France, south of the venerable Burgundy wine region. It comes from an area located not far from Mâcon, in the Mâconnais, just north of Lyon. The wines belonging to the appellation of Viré-Clessé are made from 100% chardonnay grapes. Monsieur Thévenet, whom I have met and had tastings with on several occasions, is a crafty man- almost a caricature. He has that glint in his eyes, a sign that he always knows what’s really going on, the French expression for this is très malin. Monsieur Thévenet is a bit of a rebel and often has confrontations with the INAO, a governing body in charge of regulating wines of a certain appellation or geographic region and ensuring that the rules are being followed. Monsieur Thévenet prefers to harvest his grapes when they are very very ripe, even with certain parcels succumbing to noble rot. The French government, however, does not always recognize winemakers that produce wines outside of what has been determined to be tradition from the region. The outcome is somewhat of a compromise: luscious, rich wines that are both dry and sweet.

The Wine:

The wines of Domaine de la Bongran by Jean Thévenet are sleeping beauties that often go overlooked in lieu of more expensive and popular wines from Burgundy. This dry white wine and the vineyard it comes from are special because of the traditional values and unwavering pride instilled by Monsieur Thévenet. Modeled on France’s most famous Chardonnay growing vineyard, the world renowned Le Montrachet of the Côte de Beaune, Cuvée Tradition is known for its rich flavours. The finish of this wine elevates it to the level of some other Noble vineyards in Burgundy: its significant weight and concentration is perfectly counterbalanced by its acidity. The keys to this wine are its power and its simplicity. Staying true to his own vision and standards, Monsieur Thevenet uses porcelain containers to make and age his wine, which allows the fruit essences to stand out rather than be overwhelmed by oak tastes as per the norm in Burgundy. The new-oak technique, often used by California Chardonnay growers and many famous white Burgundy producers, is commonly held responsible for the backlash against over-oaked wines and, certainly, the ABC trend (Anything But Chardonnay!). Monsieur Thévenet has no interest in changing his method of vinification, no matter how many tempting the offers from importers he may get. Another tell-tale feature of this wine is how it’s treated in the cellar once it is bottled, which directly impacts its quality. The bottles are kept in the winery cellar until Monsieur Thévenet deems them ready to drink. Simply put, it is a pure, powerful yet elegant Chardonnay.

The First Tasting:

It was New Year’s 2012 and I was at my favorite restaurant. I know the chef quite well so he allowed me to bring some wines to pair with dinner (this was before corkage was legal in Vancouver so it was very hush-hush). My boss recommended that I bring a Chardonnay to have with the seafood course consisting of scallops in a hazelnut butter- a wine pairing no brainer, even for someone who had only been in the business for six months. It was around this time that I really began enjoying aged white wine, which has since become a passion of mine. My boss handed me a 2002 Cuvée Tradition by Thévenet. It was the last one in the store, picked over and completely forgotten about in the back. The ten year old bottle tasted surprisingly young and fresh for a wine that was, at the same time, so concentrated and rich. It filled the mouth but did not tire it. It was like eating the most delicious, heavy and full-flavoured butter one can imagine, followed by an unexpected lightly acidic and cleansing aftertaste. It was a sublime moment made even more surreal by the food it was served with.

1

Château de Simone, Palette, Château Simone Blanc

The Place:

Château Simone originates from the small 45 hectare appellation of Palette just outside of Aix-en-Provence, a city known for its beautiful weather and even more beautiful women. This appellation provides for red, white and rosé wines. Château Simone is the main producer of the region and is one of only four growers that make up a little more than 3/4’s of the appellation’s annual production. Contrary to many popular white wines from around the world right now, Château Simone Blanc is a kitchen sink mix of grape varieties. The two previous wines come from single varieties, offering pure examples of their grape: on the one hand, displaying the finesse of Chenin Blanc (Quarts de Chaume) and on the other showcasing the pure unbridled power of Chardonnay (Bongran). There are no less than an impressive 16 grape varieties allowed to be included in white wines from Palette. In Château Simone Blanc, wine is primarily made from Clairette (80%), with the remainder being Grenache Blanc, Ugni Blanc, Bourboulenc and Muscat Blanc, in descending order. Blending allows for the complexities and subtleties of each type of grape to express themselves in the final product.

The Wine:

Château Simone is an oddity for me because it is different from what I normally like to drink and taste. While I am a big fan of white wines, I prefer unoaked, pure whites with a racy acidity and nerve- qualities usually found in cooler climate wines. In cooler regions, grapes keep their acidity because there is less heat and sun through the ripening process and therefore less acid turns to sugar. The result is that “pucker” sensation one commonly gets from tasting underripe fruit. It’s this tension that makes them particularly enjoyable for me. Traditional white wines from hotter regions can be heavier and lacking the acidity that quenches thirst, which leaves them- as wine people say- “flabby in the mouth”. While Château Simone is in a relatively hot, mediterranean place, right in the middle of Provence, its wines don’t abide by these rules. The wine is rich and subtle, with layers and layers of complexity, no doubt bestowed by the blending of grape varieties. Floral notes harmonize with nutty nuances and pure fruit. There is some oak aging but it is judiciously done and not overbearing. The viscous texture is balanced perfectly with a taught line of acidity that speaks to the mastery of the winemakers. Having tasted three vintages of this wine (2009, 2007 and 2004), it always seems to drink younger than it is and is clearly a wine that is meant to age. These wines can be aged upwards of 20 years depending on the vintage, which is quite a feat for a dry wine from a hot climate.

The First Tasting:

Château Simone is somewhat elusive, especially outside of France, which initiated quite an intensive search. It took me quite a long time to finally taste the wine even though I had been given one by my French family when they visited me in Vancouver the spring of 2012. They brought me their last bottle of 2004 Simone Blanc; a bottle which, to this day, is still waiting in my wine fridge to come of age. It was not until I returned to France in the fall of 2012 that I would be satiated. One evening when my French family and I were all together at the house in the country, they surprised me with a bottle that they had pried from a friend’s cellar. The 2004 was pure bliss, both the wine and the anticipation of finally tasting it culminated in one of the top 5 wine moments of my life. The wine sung like an opera singer: large, powerful, but elegant, classy and refined while remaining expressive and full of soul. The aromas I could nearly see fuming out of the glass. It has been hard to match that moment since.

Traveling to France opened his eyes to a new world. As a foreigner he often finds himself absolved from the particular and often strenuous traditional customs or behaviours expected when tasting amongst France’s wine community. “You’re in a special position by being a stranger,” he said, “France is full of traditions and things that have been passed down for generations, by being born outside of that system, I can speak more freely and ask questions and go places a French person may not be able to go”. The downside to being a foreigner however, is that you continually have to prove yourself and fight labels, “if i had a nickel for everytime I have been asked if they actually have wine in Canada…”

His mentors have nurtured his wine education by allowing him to accompany them to various wine events such as the Germany’s Prowein, The Grand Tasting in Paris and, most recently, Vinexpo in Bordeaux. His current Domaine, Domaine Charles Joguet, has been very good to him both professionally and personally. Allowing him the opportunity to meet and discuss wine with industry experts and also, perhaps most appreciated, occasionally allowing him to taste something special, like an old vintage that is not publicly available.

While France is where Zak feels most at home, with the culture, the language and an impressive knowledge of all the regions, there are other wine countries he’d like to visit. At the top of his list is Germany. At a higher longitude than France, the south facing slopes are lined with grapes that require the hills and the sun just to get ripe. “As you go by the valleys, there’s rows and rows of vines on the slopes and it’s picturesque and beautiful,” says Zak. But still, he brings the conversation back to his beloved France. Wine tastings in this part of the world are so enjoyable because they’re mostly free, vineyards open their doors freely, it’s less commercialized than wineries in North America. People love to bike down the Loire Valley- it’s flat, easy and very beautiful- and just stop at wineries along the way. These kinds of trips are also done in Bordeaux and Champagne as well.

Zak’s journey, seemingly a clichéd modern mythical tale about following dreams and discovering one’s meaning, may sound like a dream to many. But these organic, blissful moments are his reality: “There’s just a magical quality to wine country. Those little parts of land where wine is grown are really something special. Even here in Chinon, in the Loire Valley, it’s tranquil and beautiful… it’s a slower pace of life.” It’s a pleasure that he wishes others can partake in- even if it means opening one of these white wines in the privacy of their own backyard- it’s a way of living for all to experience.

It was serendipity, the way it worked out,” he said, recalling the last five years of his life. How a young Canadian guy, born and raised in a Vancouver suburb, a college football player and recent graduate of a notorious party school end up as an apprentice at Domaine Charles Joguet, one of the most storied Domaines in France’s Loire Valley? It’s a riddle that is not easily solved...Why is a raven like a writing desk?

In many ways, it felt as if the power of the universe swept things into place and made them as they should be. On the other hand, it may just be the result of natural selection- of fitness- in the wine world. This might have all started with a tasting and a knack for remembering the names of wines and what they taste like. But as the affinity grew stronger, so did the yearning for France. And so, this is how Zak Buis decided to move to French wine country to learn about the industry, fall in love with white wines and experience la joie de vivre.

After college, Zak was hired to play football in St-Étienne, a town southeast of Lyon. There, he met what he affectionately refers to as his “French family”. The couple occasionally invited him to their home for dinner; she would cook and he would open wine and say where it’s from and how it’s made. Their enjoyment of good food, good wine and the good life soon became his. It wasn’t until they brought him to La Maison Troisgros, a three Michelin starred restaurant in Roanne, that he truly started to see food and wine in a different, prominent and deliberate, light.

When he returned to Vancouver, uncertain about his future and his career, Zak took a job at a wine importing company. He enjoyed tasting and everyday his interest continued to grow. He displayed an aptitude for perceiving flavours and aromas and it soon became clear to him that this could be more than just a hobby or part-time job- it could be something “very unique.”

A year later, after having learned quite a bit about different wine regions, daily product tastings and taking courses, a longing to return to France began to set in. His french family helped connect him with a Domaine that he was familiar with and admired: Domaine des Baumard. The wines from this vineyard had a profound effect on him and it was a place he saw himself working and, most importantly, learning from a master winemaker.

While Zak helped with the making of the wine- handling everything from pumping, cleaning, preparing, harvesting, repairs, quality control, office work and communications- the most memorable lessons and memories came from sharing meals with Monsieur Baumard. It was then that he discovered that their palates were very much alike and they enjoyed a similar taste for wine. And then, his mentor introduced him to fine white wines, elegant and delicate gems, the key to finding pleasure.

In recent years, white wines are increasing in popularity especially seasonally as the stigmas or preconceptions attached to them are fewer. The New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc trend may have been responsible for reinvigorating its marketability. But liking well-aged white wines for many people is still quite unconventional. Zak’s fondness stems from something inherent in old white wines that can’t be found in any red wine: the flavour profile, the characteristics, the precision- “it’s just something that, when you find it, it can’t really be forgotten.”

3

Domaine des Baumard, Quarts de Chaume, Quarts de Chaume

The Place:

Crafted from 100% chenin blanc grapes, Quarts de Chaume is from the Anjou region in what is known as “le jardin de France” - the Loire Valley. Its name originates from a tradition in the village of ‘Chaume’, where, in the middle ages, the Lord of the region would allow his peasants to harvest and use the grapes from his vineyards, so long as the best quarter of the harvest- the grapes found on the southern facing slopes just outside the village- was reserved for him. The wine made with the grapes from that specific region, the “quarter of Chaume”, was of a superior quality because of its ideal location. The south facing slopes received sunshine throughout the entire day and their proximity to the Layon River allowed for a natural phenomenon called “pourriture noble” to take place.“Pourriture noble” or in english, Noble Rot, occurs when a fungus attacks the skin of ripe grapes. The perforated skin releases water from the grape, leaving intact their luscious sugars and acids and allowing these to concentrate.

The Wine:

This largely underappreciated and relatively unknown wine is one of the finest sweet wines in the world. Quarts de Chaume is unique amongst other wines of this nature; it contains an astonishing 250g of residual sugar per litre, yet remains refined and elegant. It dispels myths associated with sweet wines: cheap quality, headaches, over-priced, reserved for after meals or special occasions. It has made even the most skeptical wine drinkers reconsider sweet wines. Quarts de Chaume is at once opulent but not ostentatious, rich but refreshing, it coats the mouth but never overwhelms it. Its complexities must be experienced first hand; it must be tasted to be understood and both the seasoned veteran and wine novice alike will immediately understand its quality. It is a wine that is as regal and elegant as the lords of Chaume themselves.

The First Tasting:

The first time I tried Quarts de Chaume was a bottle of the 2004 vintage that I found in Vancouver. It was 2011 and I was working for a wine store, a company that imported Domaine Baumard. As I later learned, that year was what was known as “off-vintage”, a term used by critics to refer to a year with below-par conditions that sometimes influence the outcome and quality of the wine. However, the 2004 Quarts de Chaume was lighter, elegant and more refined than the “successful” vintages. The flavours were pronounced and concentrated, yet ethereal. It was so light and refreshing that the physical liquid quickly dissipated leaving behind only sophisticated remnants of tropical fruits, honey, quince and flowers.

2

Domaine de la Bongran, ‘CuvéeTradition’ by Jean Thévenet, Viré-Clessé

The Place:

The next wine brings us to the other side of France, south of the venerable Burgundy wine region. It comes from an area located not far from Mâcon, in the Mâconnais, just north of Lyon. The wines belonging to the appellation of Viré-Clessé are made from 100% chardonnay grapes. Monsieur Thévenet, whom I have met and had tastings with on several occasions, is a crafty man- almost a caricature. He has that glint in his eyes, a sign that he always knows what’s really going on, the French expression for this is très malin. Monsieur Thévenet is a bit of a rebel and often has confrontations with the INAO, a governing body in charge of regulating wines of a certain appellation or geographic region and ensuring that the rules are being followed. Monsieur Thévenet prefers to harvest his grapes when they are very very ripe, even with certain parcels succumbing to noble rot. The French government, however, does not always recognize winemakers that produce wines outside of what has been determined to be tradition from the region. The outcome is somewhat of a compromise: luscious, rich wines that are both dry and sweet.

The Wine:

The wines of Domaine de la Bongran by Jean Thévenet are sleeping beauties that often go overlooked in lieu of more expensive and popular wines from Burgundy. This dry white wine and the vineyard it comes from are special because of the traditional values and unwavering pride instilled by Monsieur Thévenet. Modeled on France’s most famous Chardonnay growing vineyard, the world renowned Le Montrachet of the Côte de Beaune, Cuvée Tradition is known for its rich flavours. The finish of this wine elevates it to the level of some other Noble vineyards in Burgundy: its significant weight and concentration is perfectly counterbalanced by its acidity. The keys to this wine are its power and its simplicity. Staying true to his own vision and standards, Monsieur Thevenet uses porcelain containers to make and age his wine, which allows the fruit essences to stand out rather than be overwhelmed by oak tastes as per the norm in Burgundy. The new-oak technique, often used by California Chardonnay growers and many famous white Burgundy producers, is commonly held responsible for the backlash against over-oaked wines and, certainly, the ABC trend (Anything But Chardonnay!). Monsieur Thévenet has no interest in changing his method of vinification, no matter how many tempting the offers from importers he may get. Another tell-tale feature of this wine is how it’s treated in the cellar once it is bottled, which directly impacts its quality. The bottles are kept in the winery cellar until Monsieur Thévenet deems them ready to drink. Simply put, it is a pure, powerful yet elegant Chardonnay.

The First Tasting:

It was New Year’s 2012 and I was at my favorite restaurant. I know the chef quite well so he allowed me to bring some wines to pair with dinner (this was before corkage was legal in Vancouver so it was very hush-hush). My boss recommended that I bring a Chardonnay to have with the seafood course consisting of scallops in a hazelnut butter- a wine pairing no brainer, even for someone who had only been in the business for six months. It was around this time that I really began enjoying aged white wine, which has since become a passion of mine. My boss handed me a 2002 Cuvée Tradition by Thévenet. It was the last one in the store, picked over and completely forgotten about in the back. The ten year old bottle tasted surprisingly young and fresh for a wine that was, at the same time, so concentrated and rich. It filled the mouth but did not tire it. It was like eating the most delicious, heavy and full-flavoured butter one can imagine, followed by an unexpected lightly acidic and cleansing aftertaste. It was a sublime moment made even more surreal by the food it was served with.

1

Château de Simone, Palette, Château Simone Blanc

The Place:

Château Simone originates from the small 45 hectare appellation of Palette just outside of Aix-en-Provence, a city known for its beautiful weather and even more beautiful women. This appellation provides for red, white and rosé wines. Château Simone is the main producer of the region and is one of only four growers that make up a little more than 3/4’s of the appellation’s annual production. Contrary to many popular white wines from around the world right now, Château Simone Blanc is a kitchen sink mix of grape varieties. The two previous wines come from single varieties, offering pure examples of their grape: on the one hand, displaying the finesse of Chenin Blanc (Quarts de Chaume) and on the other showcasing the pure unbridled power of Chardonnay (Bongran). There are no less than an impressive 16 grape varieties allowed to be included in white wines from Palette. In Château Simone Blanc, wine is primarily made from Clairette (80%), with the remainder being Grenache Blanc, Ugni Blanc, Bourboulenc and Muscat Blanc, in descending order. Blending allows for the complexities and subtleties of each type of grape to express themselves in the final product.

The Wine:

Château Simone is an oddity for me because it is different from what I normally like to drink and taste. While I am a big fan of white wines, I prefer unoaked, pure whites with a racy acidity and nerve- qualities usually found in cooler climate wines. In cooler regions, grapes keep their acidity because there is less heat and sun through the ripening process and therefore less acid turns to sugar. The result is that “pucker” sensation one commonly gets from tasting underripe fruit. It’s this tension that makes them particularly enjoyable for me. Traditional white wines from hotter regions can be heavier and lacking the acidity that quenches thirst, which leaves them- as wine people say- “flabby in the mouth”. While Château Simone is in a relatively hot, mediterranean place, right in the middle of Provence, its wines don’t abide by these rules. The wine is rich and subtle, with layers and layers of complexity, no doubt bestowed by the blending of grape varieties. Floral notes harmonize with nutty nuances and pure fruit. There is some oak aging but it is judiciously done and not overbearing. The viscous texture is balanced perfectly with a taught line of acidity that speaks to the mastery of the winemakers. Having tasted three vintages of this wine (2009, 2007 and 2004), it always seems to drink younger than it is and is clearly a wine that is meant to age. These wines can be aged upwards of 20 years depending on the vintage, which is quite a feat for a dry wine from a hot climate.

The First Tasting:

Château Simone is somewhat elusive, especially outside of France, which initiated quite an intensive search. It took me quite a long time to finally taste the wine even though I had been given one by my French family when they visited me in Vancouver the spring of 2012. They brought me their last bottle of 2004 Simone Blanc; a bottle which, to this day, is still waiting in my wine fridge to come of age. It was not until I returned to France in the fall of 2012 that I would be satiated. One evening when my French family and I were all together at the house in the country, they surprised me with a bottle that they had pried from a friend’s cellar. The 2004 was pure bliss, both the wine and the anticipation of finally tasting it culminated in one of the top 5 wine moments of my life. The wine sung like an opera singer: large, powerful, but elegant, classy and refined while remaining expressive and full of soul. The aromas I could nearly see fuming out of the glass. It has been hard to match that moment since.

Traveling to France opened his eyes to a new world. As a foreigner he often finds himself absolved from the particular and often strenuous traditional customs or behaviours expected when tasting amongst France’s wine community. “You’re in a special position by being a stranger,” he said, “France is full of traditions and things that have been passed down for generations, by being born outside of that system, I can speak more freely and ask questions and go places a French person may not be able to go”. The downside to being a foreigner however, is that you continually have to prove yourself and fight labels, “if i had a nickel for everytime I have been asked if they actually have wine in Canada…”

His mentors have nurtured his wine education by allowing him to accompany them to various wine events such as the Germany’s Prowein, The Grand Tasting in Paris and, most recently, Vinexpo in Bordeaux. His current Domaine, Domaine Charles Joguet, has been very good to him both professionally and personally. Allowing him the opportunity to meet and discuss wine with industry experts and also, perhaps most appreciated, occasionally allowing him to taste something special, like an old vintage that is not publicly available.

While France is where Zak feels most at home, with the culture, the language and an impressive knowledge of all the regions, there are other wine countries he’d like to visit. At the top of his list is Germany. At a higher longitude than France, the south facing slopes are lined with grapes that require the hills and the sun just to get ripe. “As you go by the valleys, there’s rows and rows of vines on the slopes and it’s picturesque and beautiful,” says Zak. But still, he brings the conversation back to his beloved France. Wine tastings in this part of the world are so enjoyable because they’re mostly free, vineyards open their doors freely, it’s less commercialized than wineries in North America. People love to bike down the Loire Valley- it’s flat, easy and very beautiful- and just stop at wineries along the way. These kinds of trips are also done in Bordeaux and Champagne as well.

Zak’s journey, seemingly a clichéd modern mythical tale about following dreams and discovering one’s meaning, may sound like a dream to many. But these organic, blissful moments are his reality: “There’s just a magical quality to wine country. Those little parts of land where wine is grown are really something special. Even here in Chinon, in the Loire Valley, it’s tranquil and beautiful... it’s a slower pace of life.” It’s a pleasure that he wishes others can partake in- even if it means opening one of these white wines in the privacy of their own backyard- it’s a way of living for all to experience.

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